For $3.50 US you can take a coach-style bus up into the mountains and arrive an hour and a half later in a small town peppered with centuries old cathedrals that also features dedicated pedestrian-only streets lined with eclectic cafes, bars and restaurants, a market with amazing hand-made items and a secondary market selling fresh berries in February for as little as $1 per pint.
My first trip to San Cristobal I wandered the city alone, soaking up the history and the fresh air. It's refreshing to be out of the city and up in the mountains, the air is different up there. Like I said before, there are cathedrals everywhere in San Cristobal, which makes sense since the city is named for the first bishop of Chiapas. On my walk from the bus station to the center of town (about a 5/10 minute walk) I was drawn into St. Lucias. The red and white flags in front of the building usually signaling a celebration contrasted brilliantly against the sky blue building. I was drawn inside to find fabulous architecture housing a beautifully decorated church, despite the semi-frightening statues (Catholics don't seem to mess around when it comes to realism).
The main cathedral snuck up on me. I couldn't see it's massive main entrance from the way I approached the building. The yellow, centuries-old building is huge, like nearing airplane hanger size (or maybe helicopter hanger). Candles blazed in front of every saint's statue and there was a room to the side dedicated to Mary. The doors are imposing and look as though it takes three men to pull them open. from inside the cathedral I could look onto the plaza where a large cross is the focal point standing its ground in the middle of people selling shawls, rubber balls and other trinkets you might find at a tourist trap in the United States.
I stumbled upon one of the car-less streets I mentioned earlier and walked up to the artisan market. I found a few great gifts for my sisters (and, if you're reading, no, I won't tell you what they are. :p ) I also bought a beautiful painting of a Queztal bird from a local artist who told me all about her drawings and the different local animals she painted. I have to admit, I was gave myself an imaginary pat on the back twice that day for communicating with Spanish speakers with enough fluency to learn first hand about their culture and their art (once with the painter and the other with a jewelry maker). Next to the seemingly endless market was the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.
This church was by far the most ornate in decor and architecture. It has a light peach colored exterior with spectacular etchings. Buildings of this grandeur and age always take me aback. I am first amazed at the amount of work people dedicated to create this structure, especially in a time when modern machinery wasn't an option. Then, I think of all the people who have walked in and out of this church. How many people walked in single, and happily walked out hand in hand, husband and wife; how many babies had their heads dunked in the baptismal fountain, and how many people said goodbye to loved ones?
A few steps later I found myself on another carless street, this time, in addition to cafes and restaurants, I walked past at least five hostels. It was a great street to people watch. At the end of the block was the Temple of Guadalupe (at the top of about 100 steps that seemed like more). It was worth the climb to see the city from up above. The sun was beginning to set and there was a slight breeze, it was really a perfect spring-like evening. Places like this (and Santo Domingo), while they have the ability to make me feel like nothing more than a speck, a tiny piece of a huge puzzle, can simultaneously make me feel happy to be a part of something this grand, this beautiful. I stopped every few steps on the way down to soak in more of the view.
I eventually found my way to a cute cafe called Kitsch and Bagel. I was drawn inside by a Flamenco dancer performing and a server offering hot chocolate. I took a seat, sipped my cocoa and enjoyed the last few minutes in San Cristobal listening to the dancers heels click on the wooden platform.
I would return to San Cristobal for the second time a couple weeks later. More on that trip later...
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